Julien MacDonald is famous for dressing the ladies. The movie-star, the supermodel, the rich boss lady and any woman who loves slinky, rich detailing and wow-factor bling. How would he apply this to Menswear? We had slight indications of his men's style intentions in his recent capsule collections for the UK's Debenhams and Matalan. I was the proud wearer of his Indian-made black leather brogues.
The Spring / Summer 2016 (SS16) Menswear debut at London Fashion Week has been a revelation. The pieces are theatrical. A closer look also reveals their intricacy, joining both Burberry SS16 and Balmain SS16 in presenting delicate intricacy mixed with simmering rebellion. It also echos, slightly, the street sensibility of Astrid Andersen SS15 menswear collection. Julien's menswear is louche and gender-bending too. Many of the slashed body-hugging black fabrics mirror his womenswear. The greek-romanesque sandal is a stand out. These could attract a diverse demographic. Julien has presented what is often called "resort wear", but this is no British seaside trip. It is full on Ibiza, Mykonos, Miami and the Cote d' Azur. Would the average gent buy into it? Time will tell, but I can see men selecting key pieces, like statement shorts, sandals or kimono style open tops. The collection focusses on the higher-end premium customer. Everyone's favourite rich uncle.
Julien MacDonald
Harper's Bazaar iMaxtree Slideshow
London Fashion Week
Nic Horne (NH)
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